|Formulas for figuring square feet Length x width|
|Circle – 3.14 x radius squared – (Radius is distance from center of circle to perimeter / or half the distance of the diameter) (Radius squared is radius x 2)|
SPRING HAS POPPED! YELLOW IS THE STORY THIS WEEK
Forsythia hedge on Rt. 9 taken this morning. These bushes looks so nice planted in mass and left to grow natural. The forsythia likes full sun or light shade. Pruning is the key in keeping it looking nice. Pruning should be down after blooming. Check out this site to learn how to prune the forsythia.
Daffodils are one of my favorite old fashioned bulb. Every home I have lived in I plant lots of these bulbs because they are long-lived and cheer me up in early spring.
I took the photo on the left on Feb 17, 2013 and today this is what it looks like. Unfortunately , the Magnolia tree usually fall victim to late spring frost. So enjoy the blooms now before the cold spell this weekend.
The last couple of days have been fantastic!! Finely we are seeing signs of spring. Listed below are a few chores you can start now to have a better looking summer garden.
- It’s time to get out your pruners and start trimming. For tips on Sharpening your pruners check out this video from Fine Gardening http://www.finegardening.com/how-to/videos/how-to-sharpen-pruners.aspx
- Examine shrubs for winter injury. Prune all dead and weakened wood.
- Do not prune boxwoods before April 15.
- Evergreen and deciduous hedges may be sheared. Prune the top narrower than the base so sunlight will reach the lower limbs.
- Prune spring flowering ornamental after they finish blooming.
Roses and Perennials
- Winter munches should be removed from roses and perennials.
- Complete rose pruning promptly. Remove only dead wood from climbers at this time. Cultivate lightly, working in some compost or other organic matter. Fertilize established roses once new growth is 2 inches long. Use a balanced formulation. Begin spraying to control black spot disease.
- Groundcovers can be mowed to remove winter burn and tidy plants up. Raise mowers to their highest settings. Fertilize and water to encourage rapid regrowth.
- Start mowing cool season grasses at recommended heights. For complete details, refer to University of Missouri Extension Guide #6705, Cool Season Grasses. http://extension.missouri.edu/p/G6705
- For more information about planting a new lawn check out University of Illinois Extension: Lawn Talk http://urbanext.illinois.edu/lawntalk/planting/index.cfm
- Apply crabgrass preventers before April 15. Do not apply to areas that will be seeded.
Get ready now, warm weather is sure to follow.
Learning how to prune properly is important to the appearance of your plants. Incorrect pruning techniques make shrubs and trees look unnatural and actually creates more maintenance.
- Shrubs maintain a full, natural shape on their own. Practice selective pruning vs. the hedge clipper method.
- Prune flowering shrubs after they bloom.
- Trees may need minimal pruning as they age. Remove dead or dying branches, sucker growth and criss crossing branches. Other than this, leave them alone.
When in doubt, call Blooming Gardens. We will correctly prune your shrubs for you.
Now is a good time to start light spring garden clean-up.
One of the quickest and easiest chores is cutting back the winter grasses. Unfortunately, the more full and beautiful an ornamental grass is, the messier it is when cut down. To lessen the mess of long grass blades spilling throughout your garden, use this quick and easy technique for cutting back ornamental grasses.
Wrap paper or vinyl tape around the circumference of the grass. Any wide tape will do, as long as it’s sticky enough to keep a hold on the grass blades. A strong masking tape is preferable if you plan to compost the grass.
Now that your ornamental grasses are neatly bundled, it’s much easier to take your pruning shears and prune the grass back at ground level. Because the tape is holding the grass blades in place, you can lean the ornamental grass bundle away from the base as you cut, to make cutting easier.
If your ornamental grass is well established, you may prefer to use a power hedge trimmer to do the job. Either way, pre-bundling the grass will make it an easier job than grabbing handfuls of grass blades and hand pruning.
If the base of the grass is very compacted or you notice that grass is not growing in the middle of the clump, now is a good time to burn the grass. With a rake pull back all dried materials, using a lighter, light the dry clump of grass. Make sure the fire or sparks don’t jump. Grass needs fire to live—so do this every 3-4 years for healthy grass.
Now all you are left with is a neat and tidy ornamental grass bundle. There will undoubtedly be a few renegade blades to clean up, but nothing like the messy sprawl it could have been.
Picking up the ornamental grass bundles to take to the compost pile is an easy enough task, but removing the tape can be a major hassle. That’s why I would recommend using a good quality paper masking tape, rather than a vinyl tape. The masking tape may tear more easily, so you will need more of it to hold the ornamental grass bundle together, but you can then toss the whole bundle into the compost and not worry about the tape remaining there forever. Of course, you can always sieve out the vinyl tape, so don’t waste your patience trying to remove it before composting.
More information can be found at: http://urbanext.illinois.edu/grasses/care.cfm
Do you want to learn more about edible gardening? Are you a foodie? Do you want organic seeds? This garden catalog, The Cook’s Garden, offers something for everyone.
The Cook’s Garden offers European-inspired selection of seeds and custom grown vegetables you can grow in your home garden.
The Cook’s Garden now offers custom grown plants that are certified organic to go along with our certified seeds. All vegetable and herb plants are grown under strict organic guidelines and certified by Pennsylvania Organics. The Cook’s Garden certified organic plants are grown using only all-natural methods.
Make sure you check out the recipe section, also.
One of the best places to learn about the requirements for a plant is on the Plant Label. Plant labels include recommendations for how much light a plant needs
Here are few descriptions.
Full Sun means a least 6 hours of direct sunlight each day.
Roses; lilacs; ninebark; Most vegetables need full sun
Partial Shade means at least 3-6 full hours of dappled/ direct sun per day. Plants which prefer this may struggle with direct sun.
Summer sweet, viburnum, holly, arborvitae, hostas
Light Shade is less than three hours of dappled sunlight each day.
Celandine poppy, Columbine, Virginia bluebells, Ferns
Heavy Shadehas no sunlight because of tree canopy or buildings block sun.
Pachysandra; ginger, jack-in-pulpit, Goatsbeard, Woodland Phlox